Saturday, September 19, 2009

Surfing: The Essence Of Exploration

By Damian Papworth

When I hit the beach to surf I usually head down to Mermaid Beach. Though the waves are not among the best of the Gold Coast's offerings, I choose this spot because of the ability to dodge the swelling crowds. Crowds and surfing: they've got a funny relationship. No serious surfer out there will tell you that they enjoy surfing in a tightly packed spot, yet nonetheless we all tend to exacerbate the matter by obeying certain sheep-like behavior (i.e. the "follow the pack" mentality).

A typical day at Mermaid Beach offers surfers roughly 3 or 4 peaks, though usually only one is being ridden, and by a ton of surfers. Before jumping in and paddling to a certain spot, I always have a good look to make a smart choice. My ultimate decision is always influenced both by how good the waves are and by how many surfers are already there. Usually, I'll sacrifice a bit of quality to have more room for myself, but that's a personal preference not everyone shares.

It's common for me to walk up to a kilometer in either direction to pick out a wave. After my deliberative process and having installed myself in a given spot however, there's always some surfer that breaks from the pack and comes to park right on my shoulder. I am always bewildered that the person didn't take that initiative earlier, before my arrival, given the fact that that break had been there all day. In the end, I figure it's nothing more than a lack of imagination on the other's behalf, remaining oblivious until someone else (myself in this case) points the small detail out to them.

This generally reflects the fact (which also bewilders me) that most surfers don't take any time to survey the water in search of the best wave before getting in. On the contrary, they simply get in and paddle out to the same spot where everybody else is already bunching up, assuming that by default, that will be the spot with the nicest waves.

Often I am out surfing on days where ideal conditions exist all up and down the beach, with nobody else on their board except for me. Then another person gets into the surf and ends up at precisely the same area of the water where I am surfing. Of all the places they had at their disposal, they decide to compete with me at my break. In these cases, I just paddle off to catch the next wave down the beach and keep surfing, pondering in the process about the other person's intelligence.

But witnessing this kind of behavior day in day out begs the question; What happened to the spirit of exploration in surfing? Where did it go? When was it replaced by such sheepish behavior, where we just follow the crowd? Perhaps I am just a little different to most surfers and enjoy an uninterrupted surf. Perhaps most of us actually enjoy the hustle of a crowd. I don't know. I do think this pattern of behavior is weird though.

Here is a thought. Every time you go to the beach for a surf, spend some time on the beach observing the waves before you paddle out. You may find a better wave if you look, you'll definitely catch more waves if you find a less crowded one.

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